Wildlife & Tribes of NE India

Tour - 21 days

Wildlife & Tribes of NE India

Tour - 21 days

About Assam and Arunachal Pradesh

Assam is the only state in north-east India that is almost entirely low lying. It consists largely of the flood plains of the Brahmaputra, one of the largest untamed rivers in the world. The climate is ideal for rice cultivation, all kinds of tropical crops, bamboo cultivation and fish farming.

Assam is relatively densely populated. The legal part of the population consists of at least 35 million people on an area of 78,000 square kilometers (similar to Czechia, a bit smaller than Austria), the illegal part at least 5 million.

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EASTERN ROOTS

The name Assam comes from the same origin as Siam, which means Thailand. The larger part of the population finds its roots far to the east, from where their ancestors, the Ahums, entered the area in the 13th century. For more than 600 years, the Ahums upheld a kingdom in Assam. However,especially in the last two centuries, the Assamese culture, language and genetics have changed due to immigration from India, Nepal and later Bangladesh.

Before the Ahums settled in the Brahmaputra Plain, other peoples already lived here. The most important of these are the Bodos, who now live mainly in the north and northwest of Assam (population about 1.5 million).

FOREST TRIBES

Arunachal Pradesh is by far the most mountainous and most forested state of Northeast India. It is sandwiched between Bhutan in the west and Myanmar in the east and shares its entire northern border with Tibet/China. This border is formed by the highest glacier-covered peaks of the eastern Himalayas, a very difficult area to reach.

At lower altitudes, between 1000 and 3000m, the state is endowed with dense temperate forest and the most extensive subtropical jungle of India. Here, the majority of Arunachal’s diverse population lives, divided over many different ethnic groups.

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There are at least 26 different tribes, depending on who is counting. Each of these tribes has its own language, culture, form of agriculture, religion, costumes and customs. Most of them are originally hunter-gatherers who live off what the forest yields. Donyi-Polo, the Sun-Moon god, is more popular here than Shiva, Mohammed, Jesus or Buddha. The exact origin of these tribes is largely unknown, but customs, language and looks point to East Asia and border areas of Tibet.

BUDDHIST ENCLAVES

Arunachal also has pockets of Buddhism. In the far east of the states, there are some villages where one could imagine being in Myanmar or Thailand, as the same Hinayana (Theravada) form of Buddhism is followed here. Mahayana (‘Tibetan’) Buddhism is followed by the Memba of Mechuka (north of Along) and is especially predominant in the northwestern corner of the state, where Arunachal borders both Tibet/China and Bhutan. Here, the Sherdukphen and Monpa live. Their language and culture are very reminiscent of their neighbors across the border. Tawang, the main town in this area, is said to have the largest ‘Tibetan’ Buddhist monastery outside Tibet.

To reach this area, involves 2.5 days of driving from Guwahati, whereby one crosses the 4170m high Sela Pass. The latter is done on the tour described here.

Region

Assam & Arunachal Pradesh
(India)

Best Time

March/April &
Nov/Dec

No. Of Days

21 days

Trip Character

Jeep tour/
wildlife tour

Sleeping Altitude

100 - 2350 m

Price

INR XXX/ $ XXX

ABOUT THIS TOUR

On this tour, you explore the two largest states of Northeast India, exploring its wildlife, birds and tribal culture. Starting at Guwahati, the capital of Assam,  you travel to Nameri National Park in the foothills of the Himalayas. You’ll explore this beautiful conservation area on foot and by raft.

Then you travel higher up into the mountains. At well over 2000m, Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary is a gem of biodiversity, especially birdlife. You’ll spend two days exploring this beautiful place. Via Nameri you return to the plains, only to leave theme again for Ziro, at 1700m the capital of the Apatani community.

Traveling east from here through Arunachal’s ‘tribal belt’ you’ll find yourself in an archaic landscape of ndles subtropical jungle speckled with small enclaves of bamboo houses and fields. You’ll meet several of the 26 different tribes that live here, as well as the hundreds of bird species that populate the forests.

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Coming down to the Brahmaputra again and crossing it to the south bank will bring you to Dibru-Saikhowa National Park, a heaven for water birds. After two nights at a historical tea bungalow in nearby Dibrugarh, we head back west and reach Kaziranga National Park. This is one of the crown jewels of Indian conservation. It is home to to the largest remaining population of Indian rhinos, the largest herd of wild buffalos and swamp deer in Asia, as well as large numbers of wild elephants, a very healthy tiger population and a dazzling birdlife. Also andscape-wise, Kaziranga will be one of the highlights of your journey, which ends after a 5-hour drive to Guwahati and  a 2-hour flight to Delhi.

YOUR custom-made TRIP

The tour described here, as well as the other ones on our website, are mainly meant as suggestions. We would be happy to offer you a travel proposal that fully meets your personal demands and expectations. That means that you choose where you want to go, what level of accommodation and type of transport you want and what activities you prefer.

Please let yourself be inspired by this and other trips on our website and then drop us a line (or call us) to explain your travel wishes. We will be happy to help you put together the perfect trip. You can reach us over e-mail, Messenger, Whatsapp or mobile phone.

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EXTENSIONS & VARIATIONS

Apart from the tour as described here, you could consider the following add-ons and changes:

  • Spend two nights at Dirang, in order to see highland species, as well as visiting nearby Sangti Valley where black-necked cranes spend the winter.
  • Spend a few days more at Mancotta Tea estate in Dibrugarh, to fully unwind and relax before (almost return home).
  • Spend extra days at Kaziranga National Park, enhancing your chances of seeing the elusive tiger. Kaziranga has 6 different ranges, parts of the park that each have their own character in terms of landscape and chances of seeing different species. So you need 6 days to see them all.

ITINERARY

  • Day 1: Delhi / Kolkata ✈︎ Guwahati
    After an early 2,5 hour flight you arrive in Guwahati, the capital of Assam. On arrival the local guide and driver will receive you. In the afternoon we visit the famous and colorful Kamakhya Temple, dedicated to the Hindu goddess Shakti, as well as Peacock Island, in the middle of the mighty Brahmaputra. Altitude 55m.
  • Day 2: Guwahati - Nameri National Park (5 h)
    On the way to Nameri N.P. we pass the plains of Assam and the tea town of Tezpur, before entering the foothills of the Himalayas. In the evening we take a nature walk on the banks of the nearby Bhorelli river. Altitude 55 → 100m.
  • Day 3: Nameri N.P. - Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary (4 h)
    Early morning we go inside the park to look for birds like merganser, Pallas’s fish eagle, lapwings, cormorants, ruddy shell duck, kingfishers and perhaps the elusive white-winged wood duck and the Great Indian Hornbill. After lunch we drive to Eagle Nest Wildlife Sanctuary in Arunachal Pradesh. Altitude 100 → 2430m.
  • Day 4 & 5: In Eagle Nest Wildlife Sanctuary.
    Two days will be spent in this beautiful sanctuary making short rides, walks, and birding trips around two different tented camps. Altitude 2430m.
  • Day 6: Eagle Nest - Nameri (4 h).
    We return to Nameri National Park. Afternoon rafting on the Borelli River, with a decent chance of seeing wild buffalos, as well as the Ibisbill and other waterbirds. Altitude 2430 → 100m.
  • Day 7: Nameri - Ziro (7 -8 h).
    Long drive to Ziro, in the central Part of Arunachal Pradesh. En route, we’ll visit villages inhabited by the Nishi tribe. At 1700 m, Ziro can be surprisingly cold at night. Altitude 100 → 1690m
  • Day 8: In Ziro
    The day will be spent visiting Apatani tribal villages. The older Apatani men tie their hair in a roll and tattoo their faces, while the women wear wooden nose plugs and face tattoos. In the evening you can visit the local market. Altitude 1690m.
  • Day 9: Ziro - Daporijo (7 h)
    Todays route passes through small traditional villages against the backdrop of densely wooded mountains, covered with some oft he most biodiverse forests of Asia. Tagins and Nyishi live here, both tribes generally adherents of Donyi Polo, the god of Moon and Sun. Altitude 1690 → 600m.
  • Day 10: In Daporijo
    The day will be spent on walks through a beautiful archaic landscape with bird-rich forests, bamboo groves, meadows and small Tagin villages, and in the afternoon a visit to a local market. Altitude 600m.
  • Day 11: Daporijo - Along (6 h)
    Again a beautiful day of driving through pristine forests and along bamboo villages. Along, today's destination, is a large town mainly inhabited by the Galo (or Adi Galong) Altitude 600 → 620m.
  • Day 12: In Along
    A short ride brings us to Kabu (also Adi Galong tribe). From here, we take an interesting walk of about 13 km to the village of Paya. Again, this area is very good for birding and we will take our time. Altitude 620m.
  • Day 13: Along - Dibru Saikhowa N.P. (8 h)
    Today is long drive. The narrow road winds its way down from the Arunachal hills to the floodplain of the Brahmaputra, which cross by a new bridge. Passing the city of Dibrugarh, we reach a simple but rustic ecolodge at the bank of the river at Dibru-Saikhowa N.P. Altitude 620 → 115m.
  • Day 14: In Dibru-Saikhowa N.P.
    Dibru-Saikowa is a safe haven for many rare and endangered species, including over 300 kinds of birds. We’ll explore the park with a big boat, on foot and floating in small canoes through the marshlands. Early evening, we check in to a very atmospheric tea bungalow in Dibrugarh. Once, this was the home of the tea estate manager, now it is a luxurious hotel. Altitude 115m.
  • Day 15: In Dibrugarh
    A relaxed day. You can see how tea picking works and/or take a walk on the beach of the majestic Brahmaputra. Or you can visit a small Thai Buddhist village (2 hours driving). The local monks and laymen preserve their original culture very well. Altitude 110m.
  • Day 16: Dibrugarh - Majuli Island (3.5 h)
    Our first stop is at the famous 16th century Ahum monuments of Sibsagar and at the largest Shiva temple of India. By ferry we cross the Brahmaputra to quiet Majuli, one of the largest river islands in the world. Overnight is in simple but rustic and clean cottages. Altitude 65m.
  • Day 17: On Majuli Island
    Majuli is a paradise for water birds, such as spot-billed ducks, whistling ducks, gadwalls, common teals, bronze-winged jacanas, great egrets, white-fronted goose, greylag goose, bar-headed goose and ruddy shelduck. But it is best known for its satras, monasteries where Vaishnavite Hindu monks live. We will witness a very peculiar dance by the monks. In the afternoon you can go bicycling, over small dikes and passing through small Mishing villages. Altitude 65m.
  • Day 18: Majuli - Kaziranga N.P. (97 km/ 3h)
    We take the ferry back again and then drive on to Kaziranga N.P., where we check in for 3 nights at an attractive resort very near the park. In the afternoon we go inside the park for our first jeep safari, accompanied by a specialized nature guide. Kaziranga is the best place to view the Indian Big Five: Indian rhino, tiger, leopard, buffalo and elephant. Altitude 95m.
  • Day 19 & 20: In Kaziranga N.P.
    Again you’ll do two jeep rides, each in different parts of the park. The park has seven different ranges, each with its own landscape and different chances of seeing particular species. Altitude 95m.
  • Day 21: Kaziranga - Guwahati & flight Guwahati ✈︎ Delhi (5 h drive, 2 h flight)
    Early morning you leave for Guwahati, the capital of Assam. Here, you take the afternoon flight back to Delhi. It depends on the timing of your international flight whether you will need an overnight stay in Delhi. In the latter case we can arrange this for you.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THIS TOUR

Guwahati

Guwahati, with almost 1 million inhabitants, is the capital of Assam and serves for many as the gateway to the Northeast States. It lies at the southern bank of the mighty Brahmaputra river and although modern buildings and heavy traffic dominate major parts of the city, there is still a wooded area near the river with traditional houses and colonial-era mansions. One can visit the Kalakshetra, a sprawling enclosure depicting cultures and traditions of Northeast India, the worthwhile Assam State Museum, and/or the famous and colourful Kamakhya Temple, dedicated to the Hindu goddess Shakti. Or one can take a short boat ride to Peacock Island. The island has a small Shiva temple and is home to a small population of the rare golden langur.

Nameri National park

Nameri is a beautiful national park located between the Jia Bhorelli river and the foothills of the eastern Himalayas. The vegetation consists of moist deciduous forests with epiphytes and lianas, sections of cane and bamboo, and some open grasslands along the rivers. The park is very popular with bird enthusiasts, but also non-birders will greatly enjoy its pleasant atmosphere. Birds to look for are merganser, Pallas’s fish eagle, lapwings, cormorants, ruddy shell duck, kingfishers and perhaps the elusive white-winged wood duck and the great Indian Hornbill. In 2000 part of the park was declared a tiger reserve. Accommodation is in Nameri Eco-Camp with comfortable tents under thatched roofs with attached bathrooms and in lush forest surroundings.

Eagle Nest wildlife Sanctuary

Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary rises from 500 m to 3500 m altitude, thereby spanning a large number of habitats. Mammal species that live here are clouded leopard, marbled cat, Asian golden cat and leopard cat, capped langur, red panda, Asiatic black bear, Arunachal macaque and gaur. Most of these are generally difficult to spot, however. But Eaglenest also has one of the finest birdlife assemblages in Asia. Ward’s trogon, wedge-billed and rufous-throated wren-babblers, rufous-necked, great and wreathed hornbill, black-necked crane, beautiful nuthatch, emerald cuckoo are some of the most popilar with birders. It is especially known for the Bugun liocichla, a bird that was discovered only in 1995. The name of the sanctuary does not refer to eagles, but to the Red Eagle Division of the Indian army that was posted here in the 1950s.

The APatani of Western Arunachal

Ziro is one of the most traditional areas of Arunachal Pradesh. It is home to the Apatani tribes and lies at 1600-2400m in a very fertile and extremely picturesque valley. The language belongs to the Sino-Tibetan family. Their wet rice cultivation, including farming fish in irrigated paddies, is very productive even without using farm animals or machinery. So is their sustainable social forestry system. Apatani tend to be skilled crafts(wo)men producing intricate handloom designs and cane products. The older men used to tie their hair in a roll, the women wore wooden nose plugs, and both sexes tattooed their faces. However, the younger generations have stopped this practice. Villages consist of clusters of wooden stilt houses. Their spiritual life is a mixture of Donyi-Polo, worship of Moon and Sun, and Christianity.

The Nyishi of Central Arunachal

The Nyishi, with a population of around 300.000, are the most numerous tribe of Arunachal Pradesh. Their language belongs to the Sino-Tibetan family. The Nyishi are agriculturalists using a form of shifting cultivation. The main crops are rice, maize and millet. In the past the Nyishi used a barter system and they still greatly value reciprocity. Polygamy. although now diminishing, used to be prevalent. It signifies one’s social status and economical stability and also proved handy during clan wars. Many Nyishis have been converted to Christianity by missionaries in the 1970s. Some still adhere to Donyi Polo, worshipping the Sun and Moon. This  institutionalized indigenous religion was developed at the same time to counter the inroads of Christianity. It is  based on the ancient animistic beliefs of the Tibeto-Birmese peoples of Arunachal Pradesh.

The Jungle of Arunachal Pradesh

P.M.

The Mithun

When traveling in Arunachal Pradesh, sooner or later, you will notice a strange kind of ‘cow’ by the side of the road. This is the mithun or gayal, a cross-breed between domesticated buffalo and wild gaur. The latter is a large and exceptionally muscular wild bovine that roams the last undisturbed forests of India. The gaur is a browser, adapted to foraging in the forest and eating leaves. Crossing the wild, hard to domesticate gaur with the easier to handle buffalos – that require grass, which is less available in forested areas – made a lot of sense for soem of the forest-dwelling tribes. As the mithuns are mainly kept for meat, they can roam freely in the forest till it is time to face the music. The latter happens mainly in the form of sacrificing to the gods at one of the many festive occasions, such as religious festivals, marriages and funerals.

The Tagin of Central Arunachal

The Tagin are one of the major tribes of Arunachal Pradesh, and speak a Tibeto-Burmese dialect. One concentration of Tagins is found around the town of Daporijo (600m). The Tagins practice shifting slash-and-burn cultivation, with rice, maize and millet as main crops, complemented by fishing, hunting, and gathering. Monogamy is the general rule, but polygamy is also widely practiced. The Tagins used to be followers of Donyi Polo, the worship of Sun and Moon, which includes many shamanistic practices. In the 18th century some Tagins came under the influence of Tibetan Buddhism. Recent decades have seen mass conversions into Christianity. Tagin live in stilted bamboo dwellings with verandas, which are accessible by a notched wooden ladder.

The Adis of Eastern Arunachal

The Adi people are one of the larger groups Arunachal Pradesh. There are several subtribes, such as the Adi Gallong and Adi Mynyong, inhabiting different regions and generally not inter-marrying. “Adi” means “hill,” which is an apt description of these people who generally live in the Lower (subtropical) and medium-level (temporate) mountain areas of A.P., Tibet and Yunnan (China). The Adi live in small villages of bamboo houses raised on stilts. They are self-supporting agriculturalists who still engage in gathering and hunting. Apart from the usual domesticated animals such as pigs and chicken, they keep gayal or mithun, a very large and muscular bovine that roams freely. The Adi still largely worship the sun-moon god Donyi-Polo, along with other animistic entities.

The Brahmaputra

The Brahmaputra is the boon and bane of Assam. It originates near holy Mt. Kailash in Southwest Tibet, then travels 1250 km east along the Himalayan Range until it finally finds a gorge that provides a passage through the mountains to the south. Emerging on the eastern tip of the Assamese plains, it spreads its waters wide and far. Uninhibited by any civil engineering, it wildly braids, forming new channel and islands while abandoning others all the time. It brings water to the rice fields and fish to the nets, but commercial shipping has never taken off. Because being so wide and slow flowing, the Brahmaputra is very shallow. Wild elephants cross it regularly. Local ferries and tourist cruise boats are equipped with flat bottoms – to prevent capsizing – and often side propellers for getting unstuck as well.

Dibru-Saikhowa National Park

This little visited, but beautiful, park is located at around 115 m in the far northeastern corner of Assam against the backdrop of the mighty Himalayas. It is bounded by the Brahmaputra in the north and the Dibru river in the south and mainly consists of moist mixed semi-evergreen and deciduous forests, canebrakes and grasslands. We explore the edges of the park in different manners. Among the many birds that live here, are greater adjutant, ferruginous pochard, the rare Jerdon’s babbler, black-breasted parrotbill, marsh babbler, puff-throated babbler, Jerdon’s bushchat, rufous-rumped grassbird, chestnut-crowned bush warbler, lesser adjutant, Sarus crane, Bengal florican, spot-billed pelican, white-necked stork, black stork, black-necked stork, various ducks, egrets and purple heron, which occur here in large numbers.

Tea Gardens of Assam

If there is one legacy of the Brits in India it is tea. Tea estates, tea processing and exporting, and tea drinking. It was long believed that wild tea, Camelia sinensis, only grew in China, but this small woody brush was ‘rediscovered’ by the British in the early 19th century in the jungle of Assam. Camelia sinensis var. assamica had long been used by indigenous people. Large tracts of land were converted into tea gardens and these days Assam (and Darjeeling) tea are known worldwide. There are two kinds of preparation. The black tea that is being dunked in water that just has been boiled is called orthodox. In Indian households and tea stalls the tea is generally boiled for some time with milk and sugar, and sometimes spices. This is called CTC tea. The two kinds of tea require different factory handling, but both have the same Camelia leaves as the starting point.

Brahmaputra CROSSING

The Brahmaputra is the boon and bane of Assam. It originates near holy Mt. Kailash in Southwest Tibet, then travels 1250km east along the Himalayan Range until it finally finds a gorge that provides a passage through the mountains to the south. Emerging on the eastern tip of the Assamese plains, it spreads its waters wide and far. Uninhibited by any civil engineering, it wildly braids, forming new channel and islands while abandoning others all the time. It brings water to the rice fields and fish to the nets, but commercial shipping has never taken off. Because being so wide and slow flowing, the Brahmaputra is very shallow. Wild elephants cross it regularly. Local ferries and tourist cruise boats are equipped with flat bottoms – to prevent capsizing – and often side propellers for getting unstuck as well.

The Mithun

When traveling in Nagaland and Manipur, sooner or later, you will notice a strange kind of ‘cow’ by the side of the road. This is the mithun or gayal, a cross-breed between domesticated buffalo and wild gaur. The latter is a large and exceptionally muscular wild bovine that roams the last undisturbed forests of India. The gaur is a browser, adapted to foraging in the forest and eating leaves. Crossing the wild, hard to domesticate gaur with the easier to handle buffalos – that require grass, which is less available in forested areas – made a lot of sense for the forest-dwelling Idu. As the mithuns are mainly kept for meat, they can roam freely in the forest till it is time to face the music. The latter happens mainly in the form of sacrificing to the gods at one of the many festive occasions, such as religious festivals, marriages and funerals.

Satras of Majuli island

Majuli Island is known to be one of the largest islands in the world. This is a bit of stretch as the river that bounds it at the north is not part of the Brahmaputra, but a different river and quite a small one at that. Anyhow, the area does have a clear boundary defined by waterways and dit is definitely shaped by water as well. Having lost almost half of its erstwhile area to the raging Brahmaputra, it’s future is not very certain. That goes also for the unique Hindu monasteries called satras. These monasteries adhere to Vaishnavism, a sect founded by Sankar Dev in the 15th and 16th centuries. As Hindu priests and ascetics rarely if ever live together, this is a phenomenon in itself. The monks work, pray and dance together. The dances are enactments of the ancient Hindu scriptures, choreographed by Sankar Dev. They are very graceful and esoteric, and have also been declared a Unesco World Heritage.

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