DARJEELING, SIKKIM & BHUTAN

Tour - 19 days

About Darjeeling, Sikkim & bHutan

Sikkim and neighboring Darjeeling have a lot to offer to mountain lovers, aficionados of Buddhist culture and trekkers. Wedged in between Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet – but part of India – this region shares a lot with these areas.

Darjeeling, situated at 2040m, has the typical atmosphere of Indian hill stations. It was the former summer capital of British India, and has preserved much of the old-world charm. Darjeeling is world-famous for its tea, which is grown in extensive tea estates that clad the surrounding slopes. Being very close to the tallest mountains on earth, especially number 3, the Kangchenjunga (8586m) it also boasts great views from most hotel windows.

It’s next-door neighbour Sikkim – of which it used to be part – is a gem of cultural and natural diversity. Until 1974 Sikkim was an independent kingdom, now it is part of India. It is home to different Himalayan peoples,  most from Nepali descent or originating from Tibetan and Bhutan, such as the Bhutias who brought Buddhism to the area four centuries ago. Thanks to them Sikkim boasts of colorful Buddhist monasteries and Buddhist festivals. The Lepcha’s, until a few decennia ago forest-dwelling animists, hold a unique culture that the Sikkimese government is trying to preserve.

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Sikkim’s mountains range from 200 m to 8586 m and walkers and trekkers can choose from jungle treks and low altitude village treks, staying at home-stays, to high altitude treks that bring one up-close with some of the Himalayas’ highest peaks. Trekking, and other forms of eco-friendly tourism are strongly supported by the Sikkimese government, which has a track-record of measures and policies aimed at sustainable development.

Bhutan is mainly known for its very original culture and nature. This is largely due to the centuries of isolation, but also to the deliberate policies of the present government and of the kings in the past.

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Until the seventies hardly any foreigner ever had set foot in the secluded kingdom. However, in 1972, at the occasion of the crowning of the previous king, Jigmed Singye Wangchuk, many foreign guests were invited to Bhutan. Having studied in the U.K., the future king obviously saw it coming that especially the western guests would observe a discrepancy between their own standard of living and that of most Bhutanese.

In his opinion, the Bhutanese were not poor, but merely lacking in some amenities and products that in the west would come at a considerable monetary price. Otherwise, the Bhutanese were actually quite well off, he thought. Almost all of them had a beautiful, spacious farmhouse, more than enough forests, arable land and animals to be fully self-sufficient in terms of heating, construction and nourishment. And, most importantly, a culturally defined sense of identity, belonging and security that made most of them very content and happy beings. The king had observed otherwise in the west. In order to explain this to his foreign guests, he coined the term ‘gross national happiness,’ a clever term obviously meant to be juxtaposed with what seemed to be the aim of most governments, a high gross national product.

The rest is history, one could say. These days, all over the world, conferences and workshops are being held on happiness and, more in general, on how to develop and emphasize those qualities of life that can not be measured in dollars or euros.

Bhutan does not claim that its inhabitants are the happiest in the world, but it does place overall happiness above wealth. These days, GNH, as it is generally referred to, is the formal pillar and yardstick of all government policies. After the king abdicated his powers in favour of a democratically elected government, Bhutan has seen four governments.

As a result, Bhutan has protected its culture – largely defined by Buddhist beliefs – but also its forests, mountains, rivers and wildlife much better than any other country in Asia. Key to all this is a reliable, non-corrupt government, which itself is one of the four pillars of GNH and, frankly, quite the exception in the region.

Temples, dzongs, forests and mountains

On your trip through Bhutan you will see numerous temples, monasteries and dzongs (monastery castles), better preserved and more lavishly decorated then than anywhere else in the ‘Tibetan’ realm. Not less impressive, if alone because of their rustic beauty, are the many traditional houses, and meeting the friendly, warm-hearted people who embrace their culture as a precious heritage.

Bhutan is also extremely mountainous and rich in nature, especially forest – in fact, it is the most wooded country in Asia. The southern border consists of hills and low mountains with dense jungle where elephants and tigers roam, but in the central highlands most people live in mountain villages amidst coniferous forests at an altitude of 1500 – 2500m in farms reminiscent of Swiss chalets.

Travelling through this area (and when you fly over it) you will occasionally catch a glimpse of the northern and highest parts, where the yak shepherds live and which are bordered by glacier-covered Himalayan peaks. The only way to see this up-close is to set out on a seven-day (or more) camping trek.

Region

Sikkim (India) & Butan

Best Time

Feb - April & Nov.

No. Of Days

19 days

Trip Character

Jeep tour with walks

Sleeping Altitude

295 - 2900 m

Price

INR XXX/ $ XXX

ABOUT THIS TOUR

On this trip you will visit two of the most interesting areas in the ‘Buddhist Himalayas’: Sikkim and Bhutan. In the ‘tea capital’ Darjeeling you can enjoy the colonial charm and of course the beautiful tea plantations. Then you travel up through densely forested mountains to the former kingdom of Sikkim, now a state of India.

Highlights here include a visit to the ancient Buddhist monasteries of Pemayangste and Tashiding, close-up views of the highest peaks of the Himalayas, and contact with the Sikkimese during your stay in pleasant homestays and family resorts.

Back out of the mountains, you will cross part of the North Indian lowlands to Phuentsholing, the Bhutanese border town. From here, you”ll travel up to the idyllic valley of Haa, then cross the 3900m high Chele La pass to Paro. Here, you’ll do the iconic walk to Taktsang Goemba (Tigersnest), surely one of the highlights of this journey.

One day later you are in Thimphu, the most relaxed capital in the world. This town will amaze you with its unique mix of tradition and modernity. Traveling eastwards, you’ll visit some of Bhutan’s most beautiful dzongs (castle-monasteries), such as Punakha Dzong, and the beautiful Phobjikha Valley, home to wintering Tibetan cranes. From here you’ll return in stages to Paro, from where you’ll fly out to Delhi or Kolkata.

YOUR custom-made TRIP

The tour described here, as well as the other ones on our website, are mainly meant as suggestions. We would be happy to offer you a travel proposal that fully meets your personal demands and expectations. That means that you choose where you want to go, what level of accommodation and type of transport you want and what activities you prefer.

Please let yourself be inspired by this and other trips on our website and then drop us a line (or call us up) to explain your travel wishes. We will be happy to help you put together the perfect trip. You can reach us over e-mail, Messenger, Whatsapp or mobile phone.

EXTENSIONS & VARIATIONS

Apart from the tour as described here, you could consider the following add-ons and changes:

  • If you’re wild about wildlife one or several extra days at Kaziranga are recommended. There is a lot to see in the six different ranges, and the longer you stay, the better your chances of seeing some of the more elusive species.
  • Spend two to six days extra on exploring remoter towns and valleys north of the main road, such as Trashigang, Lhuentse and Gasa.
  • Spend two to six days extra for exploring remoter towns and valleys north of the main road, such as Trashigang, Lhuentse and Gasa.
  • Spend another day in Thimphu, for instance at the end of the tour. Because, although Thimphu is by far Bhutan’s most ‘mundane’ place, it has a lot to offer in terms of culture, restaurants and cafes, shopping, and a very pleasant atmosphere.
  • Do a short trek which takes of the beaten track, along time-warped villages and high yak pastures. For instance a two-day trek in Bumthang, from Jakar to Tang and over de Phephe La (pass) to Nang Lhakhang. Or the three-day Saga La Trek from Haa upto the Che La pass. On longer treks (seven days minimum) you can get up-close with the Himalayan giants, such as Mt. Jhomolhari (7326m). For the latter, see here.
  • Spend a day rafting on the Punakha River. There are different grades available, so there is the easy-but-fun-to-do level as well. Professional oarsmen will be with you in any case. You will be picked up from your hotel and dropped off there again at the end of the day, a pic-nic lunch is included.

ITINERARY

HIGHLIGHTS OF THIS TOUR

DARJEELING

The town of Darjeeling was built by the British in the middle of the eighteenth century, initially as a place of rest and recuperation for their troops. But over time it became one of the most important hill stations (holiday resorts in the mountains) of India. During the time when Kolkata was the capital of British India, Darjeeling, situated at over 2000m, functioned as a summer getaway for the Brits, who had a hard time enduring the heat of sea-level Kolkata. Darjeeling has retained much of the ‘old world’ charm that is so typical of British hill stations. Apart from exploring the steep and winding roads of the main bazaar, its is worthwhile to explore some of the Buddhist temples, notably Ghoom Monastery, the oldest in the  region, as well as the very interesting Mountaineering Institute.

DARJEELING'S TOY TRAIN

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR), also known as the Toy Train, is a narrow gauge railway that runs between New Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling. Built between 1879 and 1881, it is about 88 km long. It climbs from about 100 m (328 ft) above sea level at New Jalpaiguri to about 2,200 m (7,218 ft) at Darjeeling, using six zig zags and five loops to gain altitude. Six diesel locomotives handle most of the scheduled service, with daily tourist trains from Darjeeling to Ghoom – India’s highest railway station – and the steam-hauled Red Panda service from Darjeeling to Kurseong. On 2 December 1999, UNESCO declared the DHR a World Heritage Site.

Darjeeling Tea

If there is one legacy of the Brits in India it is tea. Tea estates, tea processing and exporting, and tea drinking. It was long believed that wild tea, Camelia sinensis, only grew in China, but this small woody brush was ‘rediscovered’ by the British in the early 19th century in the jungle of Assam. Camelia sinensis var. assamica had long been used by indigenous people. Large tracts of land were converted into tea gardens and these days Darjeeling (and Assam) tea are known worldwide. There are two kinds of preparation. The black tea that is being dunked in water that just has been boiled is called orthodox. In Indian households and tea stalls the tea is generally boiled for some time with milk and sugar, and sometimes spices. This is called CTC tea. The two kinds of tea require different factory handling, but both have the same Camelia leaves as the starting point.

Yangsum Farmhouse

Yangsum Farm is tucked away in an idyllic landscape with the Khangchenjunga (the third highest mountain in the world, 8586m) and the skyline of the Singalila Range in the background. It is a historic farmhouse, that was built in 1833 and renovated in 1966. The owners, Thendup Tashi and his wife Pema will certainly do their best to make you feel at home here. A large part of the estate consists of half-open forest with pines, Himalayan alders, sweet chestnuts, magnolias, rhododendrons, wild cherry and more tree species. If you arrive early, you can also walk to the local Buddhist monastery, or visit the old Lepcha Heritage House, dedicated to the culture of the oldest inhabitants of Sikkim.

Pemayangtse Monastery

Pemayangtse Gompa was built by Lama Lhatsun Chempo in 1705, and it is one of the oldest monasteries in Sikkim. It was expanded by the third Chogyal (king) of Sikkim Chakdor Namgyal, who was considered the third incarnation of Lhatsun Chenpo. The monastery follows the Nyingma order (‘Old sect’) and is the main monastery of this order in Sikkim. The monks of the monastery are normally chosen from the Bhutias (ethnic Tibetans living in Sikkim since the seventeenth century). The top floor of the monastery houses a rare work of art made of wood, a seven-storey representation of Guru Rinpoche’s Celestial Palace (known as ‘Sanghthokpalri’ or ‘Zandog-palri’). Guru Rimpoche, also known as Padmasambhava, was one of the most important spreaders of Buddhism in the eighth century.

Gangtok

In Sikkim’s capital Gangtok, the rear neighbours almost always live on another street and hardly anyone has a garden, because the slopes are too steep for that. This also means that the roads are nowhere wide and often clogged. But fortunately most locations in the city can be reached on foot. Pedestrians can use a whole series of footbridges to cross busy roads. Gangtok was also the first city in India to declare its centre a pedestrian area. Here it is pleasant to stroll and shop and there are numerous ‘hip’ restaurants and cafes. Thanks to the government’s serious approach to environmental problems – a rarity in India – this is also one of India’s cleanest city centres. Interesting places to visit include the flower exhibition – with many varieties of orchids, – the Institute of Tibetology, Ranka Monastery. You may wnat to take a rid on the Gangtok Ropeway as well.

Rumtek Monastery

Rumtek Gompa is the most famous monastery of Sikkim. It was originally built in the middle of the eighteenth century under the direction of Changchub Dorje, the 12th Karmapa, the reincarnated head abbot of the Karma Kagyu Sect. It served for some time as the seat of the Karma Kagyu Sect in Sikkim, but later this was moved to Tsurpu (or Tshurphu) in Tibet. When the 16th Karmapa arrived in Rumtek in 1959 after fleeing the Chinese oppression in Tibet, the monastery was in ruins. At the invitation of India’s first prime minister, Jawahal Nehru, and with generous support from the Sikkimese royal family and the local population, the monastery was rebuilt as a replica of the Tsurpu monastery, and the sacred objects that had been brought from Tsurpu were reinstalled. A golden stupa in the monastery contains the remains of the 16th Karmapa.

PHUENTSHOLING

P.M

Road Chuzom - HAA

In our opinion, this is one of Bhutan’s most beautiful car routes. You follow the valley of the Haa river – although high above it – on a small road to Chuzom, where it joined he mani road from Paro to Thimphu. Just outside Haa you’ll pass the Lhakhang Karpo (White Temple), a recently renovated monastic centre dating from the 7th century. Beyond that, Haa Valley is Bhutan at its best: endless forest-clad mountains – where bears, leopards and even tigers roam – dotted with tiny enclaves of traditional farm houses surrounded by fields of wheat, barley, buckweat and millet. Of course, regularly stops should be made to soak up the archaic-rustic atmosphere. You can also ask the guide to take you to one or more unknown temples, which are located within walking distance above the road.

HAA

Although the flight takes only one hour, on a clear day this no doubt is one of the most spectacular flights in Asia. After leaving the North-Indian plains and the heavily forested hills you’ll cross a number of ranges before flying over the actual glacier-clad Himalayas, the highest mountain range in the world. You’ll be amazed at the different landscapes you’ll see beneath you on the other side: bare, lightly coloured mountains, tiny rivers, small hamlets of Ladakhi farms surrounded by deep-green fields of barley, made possible by ingenious forms of irrigation.

Chele La

From the Haa Valley you climb to Bhutan’s highest motorable pass, the Chele La (3988m). The narrow road creeps up through magnificent forests of enormous cedars, spruces and larches, a well as tree-high rhododendrons (which normally bloom in April-May). Once up, weather permitting, you will be treated to beautiful views of the Himalayas, especially Mt. Jhomolhari (7329 m) right on the Tibetan border. The best view you get from the road, 100 m north of the pass. Descending, you reach the Paro Valley.

TakTsang Goemba (Tigersnest)

Near Paro starts the 2 – 2.5 h climb to the world famous Tiger’s Nest (Taktsang Gompa). This beautiful monastery sits like a dovecote against the rocks, pasted 900 m above the valley. Here Padmasambhava would have landed on the back of a tiger after a flight from Bumthang to attack a local evil demon. To this end he meditated here in a cave and in 1692 a temple was built around it. In 1998 a fire devastated a large part of the buildings, but seven years later they were already beautifully restored. Inside, it is a maze of smaller temples and niches partly built on top of each other, which contributes to the mysterious and fairytale atmosphere.

Thimphu

Despite the rapid growth the city has experienced in the last decade, Thimphu, with 115.000 inhabitants, is probably still the most relaxed capital in the world. The traffic is particularly controlled and there are no traffic lights. Instead, a policeman with comical, theatrical gestures arranges traffic at Thimphu’s busiest intersection. You’ll soon notice that many recently constructed buildings exhibit characteristics of traditional Bhutanese architecture, as required by local planning regulations. This includes the mandatory display Buddhist images and motifs.

Sights of Thimphu

The Memorial Chörten, built in memory of Bhutan’s third king Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, attracts devoted Bhutanese from all ranks of the population. At Buddha Point you can view a huge brand-new open-air Buddha statue. A visit to the Changangha Lhakhang, the oldest temple of Thimphu, brings you back in the Middle Ages. Several other ‘sights’ are very worthwhile. A ‘must’ is the Institute for Zorig Chusum, where young people are taught in the thirteen traditional Buddhist arts (painting, carving, sculpting and ten other traditional arts). Thanks to this institute people in Bhutan can still build traditional temples, dzongs and monasteries. Also interesting are the Institute of Traditional Medicine, the Folk Heritage Museum and the Textile Museum.

Punakha Dzong

The main attraction in Punakha is the dzong. Until 1955 this was the seat of the king and parliament and it is still an important place. The majority of the monks of Thimphu move to Punakha every autumn to spend the much more pleasant winter here. The enormous castle-monastery is wedged between two rivers, the Po and the Mo Chu (Father and Mother River). According to many, this is the most beautiful, and certainly the largest, old dzong of the country. It has three courtyards and a number of beautifully decorated temples, including the Hundred Pillar Temple, which could be described as the ‘Knights Hall’ of Bhutan. Important ceremonies take place here, such as the coronation of a king or the installation of a new government.

Punakha - Other Sights

Besides the dzong there are several attractions that are (very) worthwhile. Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang is a recently (2003) built nunnery, entirely in traditional style and inhabited by a hundred young nuns. A short walk through some traditional villages leads to a much older monastery, the Chimi Lhakhang (see highlight). A longer walk (less than an hour one way) leads to a temple, the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chörten. This is a four-storey high chörten located on a hillside, which represents the ‘heavenly palace’ of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) and was built by a royal mother to call for protection for both her son and the entire country. From the roof you get beautiful views over the Punakha valley.

Phobjikha

Phobjikha is a protected area (Conservation Area) consisting of a number of connected vast, high-altitude valleys surrounded by thick forests. It is both scenically and culturally very rewarding, and the gently sloping valleys beckon to be explored on foot. But Phobjikha is mostly known for the black-necked cranes that winter here in large numbers between September-end and Mid-March. During this period, you most likely will be able to see the cranes during a three-hour walk through the valley and also through the telescope of a specially equipped observation and information center. The black-necked crane is not just another bird in the 700-plus list of Bhutanese avifauna. It is the national bird, and both government and people of Bhutan care deeply concerned about its wellbeing.

Walks at Phobjikha

Phobjikha is not just a protected area, it is walkers paradise as well. Th three main valleys that converge near Gangte, where you will stay, offer gently sloping mountain sides with meadows and forests teeming with birds, interspersed with small hamlets of traditional farms. On the day you’re leaving Phobjikha, you’ll be offered the option of trekking eather than driving out. In case you are traveling west, you climb and then cross a pass to the northeast. You’ll get splendid views of Trongsa Valley, and, wheather permitting, of the Great Himalayan Range. After descending down to the road, the car will pick you for the onward jurney. If you’re traveling west, you can take a similar walk, crossing a pass and descending through a magnificent rhododendron forest to the road to Punakha.

Flight Paro - Delhi (or Kathmandu)

Although the flight to Delhi takes only two hour, on a clear day this no doubt a highlight in itself. Taking off in the narrow Paro Valley might be a new experience for you, for starters. Then, after the green mountains of Bhutan have disappeared from your window you will see the vast floodplain of the Brahmaputra, with the wide, braiding river snaking through it. About one hour into the flight, you’ll pass world’s tallest mountains (on the right side). Mt. Everest, Lhotse and Kangchenjunga, to name a few. In case you are flying out to Kathmandu, you will get much closer and therefore and even better views of these big guys.
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