The name Assam comes from the same origin as Siam, which means Thailand. The larger part of the population finds its roots far to the east, from where their ancestors, the Ahums, entered the area in the 13th century. For more than 600 years, the Ahums upheld a kingdom in Assam. However, especially in the last two centuries the Assamese culture, language and genetics have changed due to immigration from India, Nepal and later Bangladesh.

Before the Ahums settled in the Brahmaputra Plain, other peoples already lived here. The most important of these are the Bodos, who now live mainly in the north and northwest of Assam (population about 1.5 million).

HAPPINESS OVER WEALTH

Until the seventies hardly any foreigner had set foot in the secluded kingdom. However, in 1972, at the occasion of the crowning of king Jigmed Singye Wangchuk, many foreign guests were invited to Bhutan. Having studied in the U.K., the future king obviously saw it coming that especially the western guests would observe a discrepancy between their own standard of living and that of most Bhutanese.

In his opinion, the Bhutanese were not poor, but merely lacking in some amenities and products that in the west would come at a considerable monetary price. Otherwise, the Bhutanese were actually quite well off, he felt. Almost all of them had a beautiful, spacious farmhouse, more than enough forests, arable land and animals to be fully self-sufficient in terms of heating, construction and nourishment. And, most importantly, a culturally defined sense of identity, belonging and security that made most of them very content and happy beings. The king had observed otherwise in the west. In order to explain this to his foreign guests, he coined the term ‘gross national happiness,’ a clever term, obviously meant to be juxtaposed with what seemed to be the aim of most governments, a high gross national product.

The rest is history, one could say. These days, all over the world, conferences and workshops are being held on happiness and, more in general, on how to develop and emphasize those qualities of life that can not be measured in dollars or euros.

Bhutan does not claim that its inhabitants are the happiest in the world, but it does place overall happiness above wealth. These days, GNH, as it is generally referred to, is the formal pillar and yardstick of all government policies. After the king abdicated his powers in favour of a democratically elected government, Bhutan has seen four governments.

As a result, Bhutan has protected its culture – largely defined by Buddhist beliefs – but also its forests, mountains, rivers and wildlife – much better than any other country in Asia. Key to all this is a reliable, non-corrupt government. This, in itself, is one of the four pillars of GNH, and, frankly, quite the exception in the region.

TEMPLES, DZONGS AND FORESTS

On your trip through Bhutan you will see numerous temples, monasteries and dzongs (monastery castles), better preserved and more lavishly decorated then than anywhere else in the ‘Tibetan’ realm. Not less impressive, if alone because of their rustic beauty, are the many traditional houses, and meeting the friendly, warm-hearted people who embrace their culture as a precious heritage.

Bhutan is also extremely mountainous and rich in nature, especially forest. In fact, it is the most wooded country in Asia. The southern border consists of hills and low mountains with dense jungle where elephants and tigers roam. Higher up, in the central highlands at an altitude of 1500 – 2500m, most people live in mountain villages amidst coniferous forests in farms reminiscent of Swiss chalets.

Travelling through this area (and when you fly over it) you will occasionally catch a glimpse of the northern and highest parts, where the yak shepherds live and which are bordered by glacier-covered Himalayan peaks. The only way to see this up-close is to set out on a seven-day (or more) camping trek.