Walking the far East

Tour - 22 days/ 8 days trekking

About ASSAM & Arunachal Pradesh

Assam is the only state in north-east India that is almost entirely low lying. It consists largely of the flood plains of the Brahmaputra, one of the largest untamed rivers in the world. The climate is ideal for rice cultivation, all kinds of tropical crops, bamboo cultivation and fish farming.

Assam is relatively densely populated. The legal part of the population consists of at least 35 million people on an area of 78,000 square kilometers (similar to Czechia, a bit smaller than Austria), the illegal part at least 5 million.

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EASTERN ROOTS

The name Assam comes from the same origin as Siam, which means Thailand. The larger part of the population finds its roots far to the east, from where their ancestors, the Ahums, entered the area in the 13th century. For more than 600 years, the Ahums upheld a kingdom in Assam. However,especially in the last two centuries, the Assamese culture, language and genetics have changed due to immigration from India, Nepal and later Bangladesh.

Before the Ahums settled in the Brahmaputra Plain, other peoples already lived here. The most important of these are the Bodos, who now live mainly in the north and northwest of Assam (population about 1.5 million).

FOREST TRIBES

Arunachal Pradesh is by far the most mountainous and most forested state of Northeast India. It is sandwiched between Bhutan in the west and Myanmar in the east and shares its entire northern border with Tibet/China. This border is formed by the highest glacier-covered peaks of the eastern Himalayas, a very difficult area to reach.

At lower altitudes, between 1000 and 3000m, the state is endowed with dense temperate forest and the most extensive subtropical jungle of India. Here, the majority of Arunachal’s diverse population lives, divided over many different ethnic groups.

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There are at least 26 different tribes, depending on who is counting. Each of these tribes has its own language, culture, form of agriculture, religion, costumes and customs. Most of them are originally hunter-gatherers who live off what the forest yields. Donyi-Polo, the Sun-Moon god, is more popular here than Shiva, Mohammed, Jesus or Buddha. The exact origin of these tribes is largely unknown, but customs, language and looks point to East Asia and border areas of Tibet.

BUDDHIST ENCLAVES

Arunachal also has pockets of Buddhism. In the far east of the states, there are some villages where one could imagine being in Myanmar or Thailand, as the same Hinayana (Theravada) form of Buddhism is followed here. Mahayana (‘Tibetan’) Buddhism is followed by the Memba of Mechuka (north of Along) and is especially predominant in the northwestern corner of the state, where Arunachal borders both Tibet/China and Bhutan. Here, the Sherdukphen and Monpa live. Their language and culture are very reminiscent of their neighbours across the border. Tawang, the main town in this area, is said to have the largest ‘Tibetan’ Buddhist monastery outside Tibet.

To reach this area, involves 2.5 days of driving from Guwahati, whereby one crosses the 4170m high Sela Pass. The latter is done on the tour described here.

Region

Assam & Arunachal Pradesh
(India)

Best Time

Feb-April &
Oct-Dec

No. Of Days

24 days, 8 days trekking

Trip Character

Jeep tour with treks & walks

Sleeping Altitude

65 - 1630 m

Trek Character

Camping trek
Level: 2

Price

INR XXX/ $ XXX

ABOUT THIS TOUR

On this tour we take you to India’s easternmost parts, making a round trip through the upper reaches of the Brahmaputra. We start off at Dibrugarh, India’s easternmost city situated amidst lush green tea estates. Then we cross the Brahmaputra, one of the world’s last big untamed rivers, to Majuli Island. There, we’ll walk and bicycle through traditional villages of the Mishmi tribe and witness a unique esoteric dance form performed by a community of Vaishnavite (Hindu) monks.

Traveling north into the forest-covered mountains of Arunachal Pradesh, we’ll see the different cultures of the Adi Gallong and Mishmi. These people live in large bamboo houses on stilts and are still largely self-sufficient. The small hamlets surrounded by fields and forest are quite an idyllic sight, exuding an atmosphere of nature-based prosperity.

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Not far from the Tibetan border we’ll see the Buddhist culture of the ‘Tibetan’ Memba, as we walk to some of their remote villages. Coming down from the mountains again, we skirt the Brahmaputra flood plain to the southwest. Near Roing, where the Idu Mismhi live, we’ll do a two-day trek to pristine Mehao Lake, set among subtropical jungles in a protected reserve.

Traveling further south again and crossing some of the Brahmaputra’s larger tributaries, we reach Namdapha National. Park. Here, close to the Burmese border, we do a 4-day trek though this magnificent park. Namdapha is one of the most biodiverse parks in Asia. It covers all altitude stages from 200 to 4700 m, has an extremely rich birdlife and a healthy population of tigers. It is the only park in the world where tiger, leopard, clouded leopard and snow leopard can be found together.

One thing that will make this trek extra special are the porters that will carry our luggage. These are of the four-legged kind, with a trunk. Yes: elephants will accompany us all the way. It is quite something to wake up to the sound of an elephant munching on its breakfast of freshly cut bamboo right next to your tent!

YOUR custom-made TRIP

The tour described here, as well as the other ones on our website, are mainly meant as suggestions. We would be happy to offer you a travel proposal that fully meets your personal demands and expectations. That means that you choose where you want to go, what level of accommodation and type of transport you want and what activities you prefer.

Please let yourself be inspired by this and other trips on our website and then drop us a line (or call us) to explain your travel wishes. We will be happy to help you put together the perfect trip. You can reach us over e-mail, Messenger, Whatsapp or mobile phone.

EXTENSIONS & VARIATIONS

Apart from the tour as described here, you could consider the following add-ons and changes:

  • Do a more challenging trek instead of the Mehao Lake and Namdapha treks. For instance, the Baily Trek.
  • If trekking is not your cup of tea we can show you some of the beautiful mountain forests, off-road villages and majestic views of the Himalayas on day walks

ITINERARY

HIGHLIGHTS OF THIS TOUR

ANCIENT TEA BUNGALOWS

The Mancotta Tea Bungalow is a so-called chang bungalow, a stately, rustic building of massive wooden bars and cottage-style masonry on stilts. The word chang is Assamese and refers to the fact that it is built on stilts. This served the purpose of avoiding flooding as well as avoiding in-door encounters with the wild animals that would regularly cross the tea estates, such as elephants, tigers leopards and king cobras. The building’s well-kept appearance belies an impressive 160 years of age. Once upon a time the manager of the Mancotta Tea Estate lived here, now it is a hotel. Its owners have taken utmost care to preserve the erstwhile style and atmosphere. It is considered one of the top-five accommodations of the Northeast.

Tea Gardens of Assam

If there is one legacy of the Brits in India it is tea. Tea estates, tea processing and exporting, and tea drinking. It was long believed that wild tea, Camelia sinensis, only grew in China, but this small woody brush was ‘rediscovered’ by the British in the early 19th century in the jungle of Assam. Camelia sinensis var. assamica had long been used by indigenous people. Large tracts of land were converted into tea gardens and these days Assam (and Darjeeling) tea are known worldwide. There are two kinds of preparation. The black tea that is being dunked in water that just has been boiled is called orthodox. In Indian households and tea stalls the tea is generally boiled for some time with milk and sugar, and sometimes spices. This is called CTC tea. The two kinds of tea require different factory handling, but both have the same Camelia leaves as the starting point.

Brahmaputra CROSSING

The Brahmaputra is the boon and bane of Assam. It originates near holy Mt. Kailash in Southwest Tibet, then travels 1250km east along the Himalayan Range until it finally finds a gorge that provides a passage through the mountains to the south. Emerging on the eastern tip of the Assamese plains, it spreads its waters wide and far. Uninhibited by any civil engineering, it wildly braids, forming new channel and islands while abandoning others all the time. It brings water to the rice fields and fish to the nets, but commercial shipping has never taken off. Because being so wide and slow flowing, the Brahmaputra is very shallow. Wild elephants cross it regularly. Local ferries and tourist cruise boats are equipped with flat bottoms – to prevent capsizing – and often side propellers for getting unstuck as well.

Satras of Majuli island

Majuli Island is best nown for its satras. These are monasteries where Hindu monks live who adhere to Vaishnavism, a sect founded by Sankar Dev in the 15th and 16th centuries. As Hindu priests and ascetics rarely if ever live together, this is a phenomenon in itself. The monks live in kibbutz-like monasteries where they work, pray and dance together. The dances are enactments of the ancient Hindu scriptures, choreographed by Sankar Dev. They are very graceful and esoteric, and have also been declared a Unesco World Heritage.

The Adis of Eastern Arunachal

The Adi people are one of the larger groups Arunachal Pradesh. There are several subtribes, such as the Adi Gallong and Adi Mynyong, inhabiting different regions and generally not inter-marrying. “Adi” means “hill,” which is an apt description of these people who generally live in the Lower (subtropical) and medium-level (temporate) mountain areas of A.P., Tibet and Yunnan (China). The Adi live in small villages of bamboo houses raised on stilts. They are self-supporting agriculturalists who still engage in gathering and hunting. Apart from the usual domesticated animals such as pigs and chicken, they keep gayal or mithun, a very large and muscular bovine that roams freely. The Adi still largely worship the sun-moon god Donyi-Polo, along with other animistic entities.

The Mithun

When traveling in Arunachal Pradesh sooner or later you will see a strange kind of ‘cow’ by the side of the road. This is the mithun or gayal, a cross-breed between domesticated buffalo and wild gaur. The latter is a large and exceptionally muscular wild bovine that roams the last undisturbed forests of India. The gaur is a browser, adapted to foraging in the forest and eating leaves. Crossing the wild, hard to domesticate gaur with the easier to handle buffalos – that require grass, which is less available in forested areas – made a lot of sense for the forest-dwelling Idu. As the mithuns are mainly kept for meat, they can roam freely in the forest till it is time to face the music. The latter happens mainly in the form of sacrificing to the gods at one of the many festive occasions, such as religious festivals, marriages and funerals.

Mechuka

Mechuka is an isolated hamlet north of Along situated at an altitude of 1950m. It is surrounded by majestic mountains and relatively close to the Himalayan Range that forms the border with Tibet/ China. Beautiful day hikes will reward you with magnificent views as well as a peep into more isolated, small villages where the Memba live. This tribal community is similar to the Monpa of West Kameng and Tawang, and most likely moved here from eastern Bhutan and/or Tibet several centuries ago. They are self-supporting agriculturalists who also grow cash crops like rice, maize, millet, potato, cereals and rice. They share many of their customs with the peoples of Tibet, Bhutan and Ladakh. The Memba are devout Buddhists who follow the Nyingmapa sect (Old School) of Buddhism.

Birmese villages of Eastern Arunachal

P.M.

Roing

P.M.

Mehao Wildlife Sanctuary

Mehao Wildlife Sanctuary, near Roing, is one of India’s easternmost protected areas. It is named after the idyllic Mehao Lake that sits right in the middle of the sanctuary. It covers an area of 280 sq. km and ranges in altitude from 400 to 3568m. It is extremely mountainous and largely covered in pristine or semi-natural subtropical jungle and temperate forests. The floral biodiversity is enormous but remains yet to be fully researched. Birds and wildlife include tiger, snow leopard (only in winter), common leopard, sloth bear, elephant, wild boar, Hanuman langur, white-browed gibbon, red panda, musk deer and mishmi takin. The latter is a subspecies of the takin, an endangered goat-antelope native to Bhutan, Arunachal Pradesh, Myanmar and China. Among the birds worth mentioning are several kinds of hornbills and the extremely rare white-winged wood duck that breeds near Mehao Lake.

Namdapha National Park

Namdapha is one of India’s most remote and also largest parks (nearly 2,000 square km). It has a variety of ecosystems, fauna and flora that is unparalleled. This is partly due to its location on a steeply ascending part of the most eastern Himalayan ‘foothills.’ The lower parts of the park are situated at 200m ASL, the highest point at 4700m. As a result, it has both large, raging rivers and steaming jungle as well as snowy peaks. It is the only national park on earth where four big cats feel at home – tiger, snow leopard, common leopard and clouded leopard. And then there are black bear, fishing cat, lynx, dhole (Indian wild dog, rare) and a series of small predators, flying and giant squirrel and the Hoolock Gibbon. On this tour we’ll immerse ourselves in all this natural beauty on a 8-day camping trek in the park.
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