The historic Bailey Trail – Trek to Tawang

Tour - 15 days/ 7-day trek

About Arunachal Pradesh

Arunachal Pradesh is by far the most mountainous state in the northeast of India. It is sandwiched between Bhutan in the west and Myanmar in the east and shares its entire northern border with Tibet/China. This border is formed by the highest glacier-covered peaks of the eastern Himalayas, a very difficult area to reach.

At lower altitudes, between 1000 and 3000m, the state is endowed with dense temperate forest and the most extensive subtropical jungle of India. Here, the majority of Arunachal’s diverse population lives, divided over many different ethnic groups.

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There are at least 26 different tribes, depending on who’s counting. Each of these tribes has its own language, culture, form of agriculture, religion, costumes and customs. Most of them are originally hunter-gatherers who live off what the forest yields. Donyi-Polo, the Sun-Moon god, is more popular here than Shiva, Mohammed, Jesus or Buddha. The exact origin of these tribes is largely unknown but customs, language and looks point to East Asia and border areas of Tibet.

BUDDHIST ENCLAVES

Arunachal also has pockets of Buddhism. In the far east of the states there are some villages where one could imagine being in Myanmar or Thailand, as the same Hinayana (Theravada) form of Buddhism is followed here. Mahayana (‘Tibetan’) Buddhism is followed by the Memba of Mechuka (north of Along) and is especially predominant in the northwestern corner of the state, where Arunachal borders both Tibet/China and Bhutan. Here,the Sherdukphen and Monpa live. Their language and culture are very reminiscent of their neighbours across the border. Tawang, the main town in this area, is said to have the largest ‘Tibetan’ Buddhist monastery outside Tibet.

To reach this area, involves either 2.5 days of driving from Guwahati, whereby one crosses the 4170m high Sela Pass, or minimally seven days of trekking, crossing even higher passes. The latter is done on the tour described here.

Region

Arunachal Pradesh
(India)

Best Time

March-April &
Oct-Dec

No. Of Days

15 days, 7 days trek

Trip Character

Trekking tour

Sleeping Altitude

50 - 4200 m

Trek Character

Camping trek
Level: 3

Price

INR XXX/ $ XXX

ABOUT THIS TOUR

Trekking in Arunachal Pradesh is still really undeveloped. This trek follows, in part, the historic Bailey Trail, a reconnaissance of the Indo-Tibetan border done by Lt. Col. Bailey in 1911. However, it is by no means an established trekking route as not many outsiders follow it at present.

On this tour, you first travel from Delhi to Guwahati, the capital of Assam. From there, you travel along the tea centre of Tezpur upto the small town of Thembang in Arunachal Pradesh (2170m). Here, your trek along the historic Bailey Trail will start.

This trek leads you through several different altitude zones. On the first part, you will meet with a tropical environment and unknown tribes such as the Aka and Miji, who had never seen westerners until very recently. You walk over forest trails and open farmland, sometimes through dense primary (virgin) forest, and you regularly follow wild rivers.

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After the first days, you’ll reach higher elevations where inhabitation is sparse and the vegetation is moderate. You’ll walk through oak and mixed forests of rododendrons with conifers. In April the rododendrons should be blooming. Even higher, you’ll be crossing yak meadows and eventually come close to an altitude 5000 m. Here, you’ll have magnificent views of Himalayan peaks like the Gorichen (6500 meters) and Kangto (7090 m).

This is the home of the Monpa tribe, whose villages you’ll cross. The Monpa are of Tibetan descendence and follow the Lamaist form of Buddhism. The same people you’ll meet on your subsequent visit to Tawang and Tawang Monastery, said to be the largest Lamaist Buddhist monastery outside Tibet.

After completing the trek you come down to Tezpur again. You’ll spend two nights at nearby Nameri National Park. Here, you explore this magnificent park on foot and (if you like) by rafting.

YOUR custom-made TRIP

The tour described here, as well as the other ones on our website, are mainly meant as suggestions. We would be happy to offer you a travel proposal that fully meets your personal demands and expectations. That means that you choose where you want to go, what level of accommodation and type of transport you want and what activities you prefer.

Please let yourself be inspired by this and other trips on our website and then drop us a line (or call us) to explain your travel wishes. We will be happy to help you put together the perfect trip. You can reach us over e-mail, Messenger, Whatsapp or mobile phone.

EXTENSIONS & VARIATIONS

Apart from the tour as described here, you could consider the following add-ons and changes:

  • Spend a few days at a tea estate in Tezpur, to fully unwind and relax before you start on the trek.
  • If you’re interested in wildlife, consider adding a few days at  Kaziranga National Park, home to a large population of Indian rhinos, wild buffalos, wil elephants, deer and almost 500 species of birds. It is only 4.5 hours drive from Guwahati or 3.5 hours drive from Tezpur/Nameri.

ITINERARY

HIGHLIGHTS OF THIS TOUR

TezpuR Tea Gardens

If there is one legacy of the Brits in India it is tea. Tea estates, tea processing and exporting, and tea drinking. It was long believed that wild tea, Camelia sinensis, only grew in China, but this small woody brush was ‘rediscovered’ by the British in the early 19th century in the jungle of Assam. Camelia sinensis var. assamica had long been used by indigenous people. Large tracts of land were converted into tea gardens and these days Assam (and Darjeeling) tea are known worldwide. There are two kinds of preparation. The black tea that is being dunked in water that just has been boiled is called orthodox. In Indian households and tea stalls the tea is generally boiled for some time with milk and sugar, and sometimes spices. This is called CTC tea. The two kinds of tea require different factory handling, but both have the same Camelia leaves as the starting point.

The Bailey Trail

The Bailey trek follows old trails that connect small isolated villages in the northwest of Arunachal Pradesh. It is named after Lt. Col. F.M. Bailey. In 1911 and 1912 he was sent by the British administration to explore and establish the border with Tibet, together with a surveyor. As finding access from the western part of the North East Frontier Agency (NEFA), as Arunachal Pradesh was called a the time, was difficult, they traveled to  the eastern side and entered Tibet where the Brahmaputra enters India. From the Tibetan side (which is much higher) they were able to to explore the highest peaks of the Himalayan Range, thus establishing the so-called MacMahon Line which has served as the border since 1914 (accepted by Tibet but later contested by China). They crossed the Tulung La into India and after reaching Mago followed what we today call the Bailey Trail to Thembang.

The Monpa people of Tawang

The Monpa make up 97% of the population in the Tawang area. This nomadic tribe migrated here thousands of years ago. Once they settled in the Tawang area, they made great efforts to terrace the mountain slopes in order to prevent soil erosion. The area Increasingly came under Tibetan political and cultural influence, but many elements of pre-Buddhist Bon faith are still present. Tawang Monastery plays a central role in Monpa culture. Traditional Monpas can be recognised by their hats made of yakhair with long tassels. Their houses, made of stone and wood, often have beautifully carved doors and window frames. Limited numbers of Monpas can also be found in other parts of Arunachal Pradesh, in Tibet and in Bhutan.

Tawang

Tawang Gompa (17th century) is considered to be the largest lamaist Buddhist monastery outside Tibet. The monastery belongs to the Gelugpa school, the sect the Dalai Lama presides over. The elongated monastery sits on a hillock overseeing Tawang town at an elevation of 3300m. Up to 400 monks live here. Buddhist monasteries like this often have a rather complex set-up with many congregation halls, smaller temples dedicated to different forms of the Buddha and Bodhisattvas (enlightened beings), and monks’ quarters and classrooms. The three-storey Dukhang, or main assembly hall, houses, among other things, an 8.3 m high golden statue of the Buddha Maitreya. The Parkhang library, has a collection of 400-year-old scriptures.

Surroundings of Tawang

The main options outside Tawang are visiting lakes near the Tibetan border, as well as a small temple dedicated to Guru Padmasambhava. Closer to Bhutan you can visit Zemithang, with the largest stupa in India, made as a replica of the famous Swayambunath Stupa in Kathmandu (Nepal). Zemithang is also very close to the place where the Dalai Lama entered India on his exile in 1959. Please note that the Tawang area is army-controlled. We can ask for permission to visit Ptsho lake and a little beyond, and this is most likely granted, but not guaranteed. You can also visit a Monpa village and in the evening the market of Tawang itself.

Bomdila

The small town of Bomdila sits at 2415m, surrounded by apple orchards and orchid farms. It is a pleasant stop between Tezpur and Tawang. The area is mainly inhabited by the Sherdukphen and the Monpa, both tribes of Tibetan origin that adhere to Mahayana Buddhism. The rather large Buddhist monastery Gaden Rabgye Ling, located above the town, dominates the townscape. Other interesting places to visit are the market, the Buddha Park and the Guru Rinpoche statue. From the Bomdila helipad you can enjoy nice views of the whole town.

Nameri National park

Nameri is a beautiful national park located between the Jia Bhorelli river and the foothills of the eastern Himalayas. The vegetation consists of moist deciduous forests with epiphytes and lianas, sections of cane and bamboo, and some open grasslands along the rivers. The park is very popular with bird enthusiasts, but also non-birders will greatly enjoy its pleasant atmosphere. Birds to look for are merganser, Pallas’s fish eagle, lapwings, cormorants, ruddy shell duck, kingfishers and perhaps the elusive white-winged wood duck and the great Indian Hornbill. In 2000 part of the park was declared a tiger reserve. The best accommodation here is Nameri Eco Camp. Here, you sleep in comfortable ‘safari tents’ under thatched roofs with attached bathrooms and in lush forest surroundings.

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