Highlights of North-east India

Tour - 12 days

About ASSAM and Nagaland

Assam is the only state in north-east India that is almost entirely low lying. It consists largely of the flood plains of the Brahmaputra, one of the largest untamed rivers in the world. The climate is fantastic for rice cultivation, all kinds of tropical crops, bamboo cultivation and fish farming.

Assam is relatively densely populated. The legal part of the population consists of at least 35 million people on an area of 78,000 square kilometers (similar to Czechia, a bit smaller than Austria), the illegal part at least 5 million.

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The name Assam comes from the same origin as Siam, which means Thailand. The larger part of the population finds its roots far to the east, from where their ancestors, the Ahums, entered the area in the 13th century. For more than 600 years the Ahums upheld a kingdom in Assam. Especially in the last two centuries the Assamese culture, language and genetics have changed due to frequent immigration from India, Nepal and later Bangladesh.

Before the Ahums settled in the Brahmaputra Plain, other peoples already lived here. The most important of these are the Bodos, who now live mainly in the north and northwest of Assam (population about 1.5 million).

Nagaland is wedged between Assam in the west and Myanmar (Burma) in the east. It is about half as large as the Netherlands and, with around 2 million inhabitants, relatively thinly populated. Nagaland is quite mountainous, the highest mountain reaching 3840m (Mt. Saramati). But most of the state is between 500 and 2000m, and thus endowed with a climate in which virtually anything will grow. The main crops are rice (especially mountain rice), corn, millet, pulses, tobacco, oilseeds such as mustard, sugarcane, potato, and bamboo.

A significant part of the population still lives of shifting cultivation, whereby every so many years a new piece of forest is burnt down, tilled for a number of years till the soil is exhausted, and then left for another piece of land. The government is trying to discourage this highly unsustainable form of farming, and encourage alternatives, such as orange and pineapple cultivation.

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The people of Nagaland belong to the Burmese-Tibetan ‘race’, and originate probably from Tibet, perhaps with influx from Southeast Asia. They are believed to have settled around the year 1000 in present day Nagaland. Although he Nagas never had their own state, they were considered a culturally and geographically distinct entity by neighbouring countries.

One of the causes of this lack of statehood was the habit of the Naga tribes to continuously wage wars between them. In addition, the Nagas had the curious habit of head hunting. The heads and scalps were cherished as trophies and can still be seen in the villages. Contact with Christianity has eventually made them abandon the practice, but not before the early fifties. Today the war dances of he Nagas, performed at festivals, are a major draw for tourists.

There are 18 different tribes, each with its own distinct customs, dialect and clothing. But the Nagas are united in their cultural traditions and customs, religion – today, almost all Nagas are Christians – and the use of Nagamese – a lingua franca that is a mix of Naga and Assamese.

Region

Assam & Nagaland (India)

Best Time

Feb-April &
Nov-Dec

No. Of Days

12 days

Trip Character

Jeep tour

Sleeping Altitude

65 - 1400 m

Price

INR XXX/ $ XXX

ABOUT THIS TOUR

The Northeast of India is an immensely biodiverse and culturally rich area. It consists of seven states, each of them with different landscapes, people and culture. On this compact tour, we’ll show you some highlights of Northeast India, in two very different states, Assam and Nagaland.

From Delhi or Kolkata you fly to Dibrugarh, India’s easternmost city, situated on the banks of the Brahmaputra. Here, you’ll stay at a very atmospheric nineteenth century tea estate manager’s bungalow amidst lush and extensive tea plantations.

Traveling westwards, you’ll visit the ancient temple and palace remains of the Ahum empire and then board a ferry to Majuli Island. On this island, you can walk and bicycle through traditional villages of the Mishmi tribe and witness a unique esoteric dance performed by a community of Vaishnavite (Hindu) monks.

After returning to the mainland, you travel southeast and visit the mountainous state of Nagaland. The Nagas, though once upon a time fierce warriors and even head-hunters, are known for their hospitality. Originally adhering to animistic beliefs, these days they are Christians. Here, you visit some quaint local villages and – if you are there at the right time – a spectacular local festival where the Nagas perform their wear dances.

Returning to Assam, you visit Kaziranga National Park, home to the largest population of Indian rhinos, as well as elephants, tigers and much more. After two days of exploring this fascinating park, you travel further west to Assam’s capital, Guwahati, from where you return to Delhi or Kolkata.

YOUR custom-made TRIP

The tour described here, as well as the other ones on our website, are mainly meant as suggestions. We would be happy to offer you a travel proposal that fully meets your personal demands and expectations. That means that you choose where you want to go, what level of accommodation and type of transport you want and what activities you prefer.

Please let yourself be inspired by this and other trips on our website and then drop us a line (or call us) to explain your travel wishes. We will be happy to help you put together the perfect trip. You can reach us over e-mail, Messenger, Whatsapp or mobile phone.

EXTENSIONS & VARIATIONS

Apart from the tour as described here, you could consider the following add-ons and changes:

  • An extra night in Dibrugarh at the beginning of the tour would help in fully shedding the tiredness of daily working life before heading out on your adventures. The place is ideal for that!
  • There are several cultural festivals in Assam, Nagaland (and also Manipur, not far from Kohima) that take place during the autumn and winter months. Among the best known are the Hornbill Festival in Kohima (Nagaland, December 1-10) and the Sangay Festival in in Imphal (Manipur, November 21-30). If your travel dates are close to these dates we can work out an itinerary in which you’ll be able to attend one or both of these festivals.
  • If you’re wild about wildlife one or several extra days at Kaziranga are recommended. There is a lot to see in the six different ranges, and the longer you stay, the better your chances of seeing some of the more elusive species.

ITINERARY

HIGHLIGHTS OF THIS TOUR

ANCIENT TEA BUNGALOWS

The Mancotta Tea Bungalow is a so-called chang bungalow, a stately, rustic building of massive wooden bars and cottage-style masonry on stilts. The word chang is Assamese and refers to the fact that it is built on stilts. This served the purpose of avoiding flooding as well as avoiding in-door encounters with the wild animals that would regularly cross the tea estates, such as elephants, tigers leopards and king cobras. The building’s well-kept appearance belies an impressive 160 years of age. Once upon a time the manager of the Mancotta Tea Estate lived here, now it is a hotel. Its owners have taken utmost care to preserve the erstwhile style and atmosphere. It is considered one of the top-five accommodations of the Northeast.

Tea Gardens of Assam

If there is one legacy of the Brits in India it is tea. Tea estates, tea processing and exporting, and tea drinking. It was long believed that wild tea, Camelia sinensis, only grew in China, but this small woody brush was ‘rediscovered’ by the British in the early 19th century in the jungle of Assam. Camelia sinensis var. assamica had long been used by indigenous people. Large tracts of land were converted into tea gardens and these days Assam (and Darjeeling) tea are known worldwide. There are two kinds of preparation. The black tea that is being dunked in water that just has been boiled is called orthodox. In Indian households and tea stalls the tea is generally boiled for some time with milk and sugar, and sometimes spices. This is called CTC tea. The two kinds of tea require different factory handling, but both have the same Camelia leaves as the starting point.

Sibsagar

The small city of Sibsagar (or Sivasagar) lies halfway between Jorhat and Dibrugarh. It used to be the capital of the Ahum kingdom, which ruled over Assam between 1228 and 1826. During this time, the Ahums managed to resist invasion attempts by the Burmese, the Moghuls and the British. A series of relatively well preserved palaces and temples remains outside Sibsagar. The Ahums hailed from Thailand and brought many Thai influences to Assam, such as language, arts and architecture. Although originally Buddhists, they became eventually Hindus. Sibsagar also boasts of a Shiva temple with the largest dome (shiv dol) in India. Shiva is, among other things, the god of virility and fertility. A steady stream of believers flows in and out to worship, but also to sacrifice in the hope of good school results, a prosperous marriage, etc.

Gibbon Sanctuary

Less than an hour’s drive from Jorhat is the Gibbon Sanctuary. This is a relatively small but beautiful protected area where the very rare Hoolock gibbons live, along with wild elephants and many species of forest birds. The Hoolock gibbons belongs to the great apes and only occurs in Assam and Bhutan. Chances to see the Hoolocks here, as they swing from branch to branch, are very good, especially early morning. You can visit the park on foot, accompanied by a park ranger. You’ll see many birds as well, and if you are lucky, a heard of wild elephants will cross your path!

Brahmaputra CROSSING

The Brahmaputra is the boon and bane of Assam. It originates near holy Mt. Kailash in Southwest Tibet, then travels 1250km east along the Himalayan Range until it finally finds a gorge that provides a passage through the mountains to the south. Emerging on the eastern tip of the Assamese plains, it spreads its waters wide and far. Uninhibited by any civil engineering, it wildly braids, forming new channel and islands while abandoning others all the time. It brings water to the rice fields and fish to the nets, but commercial shipping has never taken off. Because being so wide and slow flowing, the Brahmaputra is very shallow. Wild elephants cross it regularly. Local ferries and tourist cruise boats are equipped with flat bottoms – to prevent capsizing – and often side propellers for getting unstuck as well.

Satras of Majuli island

Majuli Island is known to be one of the largest islands in the world. In the south it is bounded by the majestic Brahmaputra, in the north by a much smaller river. Majuli has been shaped by these waters but now threatens to be taken by it as well. Having lost almost half of its erstwhile area to the raging Brahmaputra, its future is not very certain. That goes also for the unique Hindu monasteries called satras. These monasteries adhere to Vaishnavism, a sect founded by Sankar Dev in the 15th and 16th centuries. As Hindu priests and ascetics rarely, if ever, live together, this is a phenomenon in itself. The monks work, pray and dance together. The dances are enactments of the ancient Hindu scriptures, choreographed by Sankar Dev. They are very graceful and esoteric, and have also been declared a Unesco World Heritage.

The Naga Culture

The Naga people originated in South East Asia and are distributed all along the India Myanmar border. The nagas speak a lingua franca known as Nagamese, which is a smart combination of English, Hindi and Assamese. Naga villages are generally located on the top of a hill, guarded by ceremonial gates with strong wooden or stone doors. Security was an important issue as in the 16th and 20th century there there were regular tribal wars between various tribes and khels (neighbourhoods). The gates are often designed with moon, sun, mithuns and female breasts (sign of fertility). The richness of the Naga culture is expressed in the very colourful attire which is shown at the many festivals that happen during the winter season.

Kohima

Kohima, situated on wooded hilltops at about 1450m, is the capital of Nagaland. Visiting the city is worthwhile for several reasons. Its main claim to fame are the fierce battles which took place in 1944 during World War II between Japanese troups invading from Burma (Myanmar) and Allied British-Indian troops. The latter eventually gained the upper hand. The battle is often referred to as the ‘Stalingrad of the East,’ because Kohima is the point of the furthest Japanese advance into British India. Kohima’s well-kept War Cemetery with the graves of 1400 Allied soldiers is a sobering place. A very well appointed war museum in Kisama, outside Kohima, brings this defining point in Indian history to life. It is situated on the same grounds where each year in December the spectacular Hornbill Festival is held (see next highlight).

The Mithun

When traveling in Nagaland and Manipur, sooner or later, you will notice a strange kind of ‘cow’ by the side of the road. This is the mithun or gayal, a cross-breed between domesticated buffalo and wild gaur. The latter is a large and exceptionally muscular wild bovine that roams the last undisturbed forests of India. The gaur is a browser, adapted to foraging in the forest and eating leaves. Crossing the wild, hard to domesticate gaur with the easier to handle buffalos – that require grass, which is less available in forested areas – made a lot of sense for the forest-dwelling Idu. As the mithuns are mainly kept for meat, they can roam freely in the forest till it is time to face the music. The latter happens mainly in the form of sacrificing to the gods at one of the many festive occasions, such as religious festivals, marriages and funerals.

Khonoma

The small village of Khonoma is peculiar in many ways. Home to the fierse  Angami tribals, it managed to repel attacks by the British in 1847 and 1879. Thus, its main claim to fame is that it was never conquered. These days, its main draw is the beautiful traditional looking village with its green terraced rice fields, herbal trees, flowers, pomelo trees, squash gourd vines and megaliths, against the back-drop of densely forested hills. The inhabitants of Khonoma predominantly live of agriculture and, like all Nagas, used to be passionate hunters. However, in a rare case of communal ecological awareness, in 2001 they gave up all hunting and declared an area of 2000 hectares near the village a conservation area.  Now known as the Tragopan Sanctuary, bird watchers often visit this forest to spot the Blyth’s Tragopan (a rare pheasant) and 200 other bird species

Kaziranga National Park

Kaziranga N.P. is one of the crown jewels of Indian conservation. It is set for the protection of the Indian (unicorn) rhino. In 1908, when Kaziranga was first declared a Reserved Forest, less than 15 animals of it were still alive, now there are more than 2400. This is due to a for India unusually strict protection, in which a real war was – and is -fought with poachers who target the horn. This has worked out well, and not only for the rhinos. Nowadays Kaziranga is home to the largest populations of wild buffalos, wild elephants and swamp deer of Asia , as well as around 500 bird species. And the tiger… ? Kaziranga also has the highest density of tigers in Asia (largest number per 100 km2). Seeing rhinos in Kaziranga is easy, the tiger is a different matter. From our own experience, your chances of seeing one on a jeep drive are around 10%.

Guwahati

Guwahati, with almost 1 million inhabitants, is the capital of Assam and serves for many as the gateway to the Northeast States. It lies at the southern bank of the mighty Brahmaputra river and although modern buildings and heavy traffic dominate major parts of the city, there is still a wooded area near the river with traditional houses and colonial-era mansions. One can visit the Kalakshetra, a sprawling enclosure depicting cultures and traditions of Northeast India, the worthwhile Assam State Museum, and/or the famous and colourful Kamakhya Temple, dedicated to the Hindu goddess Shakti. Or one can take a short boat ride to Peacock Island. The island has a small Shiva temple and is home to a small population of the rare golden langur.
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