Assam, Meghalaya & Sikkim

Tour - 21 days/ 5-day trek

About Assam, Meghalaya and Sikkim

Assam is the only state in north-east India that is almost entirely low lying. It consists largely of the flood plains of the Brahmaputra, one of the largest untamed rivers in the world. The climate is fantastic for rice cultivation, all kinds of tropical crops, bamboo cultivation and fish farming.

Assam is relatively densely populated. The legal part of the population consists of at least 35 million people on an area of 78,000 square kilometers (similar to Czechia, a bit smaller than Austria), the illegal part at least 5 million.

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The name Assam comes from the same origin as Siam, which means Thailand. The larger part of the population finds its roots far to the east, from where their ancestors, the Ahums, entered the area in the 13th century. For more than 600 years the Ahums upheld a kingdom in Assam. Especially in the last two centuries the Assamese culture, language and genetics have changed due to frequent immigration from India, Nepal and later Bangladesh.

Before the Ahums settled in the Brahmaputra Plain, other peoples already lived here. The most important of these are the Bodos, who now live mainly in the north and northwest of Assam (population about 1.5 million).

Meghalaya means “the abode of clouds” in Sanskrit. During the British domination of India it was nicknamed “Scotland of the East”. The 1500 m high plateau of Meghalaya, which rises like a wall on the north side of the lowlands of Bangladesh, receives during its annual monsoon an amount of rain that is unparalleled in the world. The central and western parts of the state consist of vast, open grasslands, but in sheltered gorges beautiful, lush forests are found.

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The population of Meghalaya is approximately 3.3 million, living on an area of about 22,430 square kilometres (a bit bigger than Israel). This makes it not very densely populated, but denser than most of the mountainous areas of Northeast India. The most important population groups are the Khasi, Garo and Jaintia. The Khasi have a very interesting matriarchal culture, in which the youngest daughter inherits the parental heritage (and the duty to take care of mom and dad). Meghalaya has a predominantly agricultural economy with commercial forestry. The main crops are potatoes, rice, corn, pineapple, bananas, papaya and spices.

Sikkim and neighbouring Darjeeling have a lot to offer to mountain lovers, aficionados of Buddhist culture and trekkers. Darjeeling, the former summer capital of British India has a unique old-world charm and boasts great views from many hotel windows.

It’s next-door neighbour Sikkim – of which it used to be part – is a gem of cultural and natural diversity. Until 1974 an independent kingdom, it is part of India now. It is home to people of very different cultures, most from Nepali descent or originating from Tibetan and Bhutan, such as the Bhutias who brought Buddhism to the area four centuries ago. Thanks to them Sikkim boasts of colorful Buddhist monasteries and Buddhist festivals. The Lepcha’s, until a few decennia ago forest-dwelling animists, hold a unique culture that the Sikkimese government is trying to preserve.

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Sikkim’s mountains range from 200 m to 8586 m and walkers and trekkers can choose from jungle treks, low altitude village treks, staying at home-stays, and high altitude treks that bring one up-close with some of the Himalayas’ highest peaks. Trekking, and other forms of eco-friendly tourism are strongly supported by the Sikkimese government, which has a track-record of measures and policies aimed at sustainable development.

Region

Assam, Meghalaya, Darjeeling & Sikkim
(India

Best Time

March-April & Oct-Nov

No. Of Days

28 days,
5 days trek

Trip Character

Jeep tour with trek

Sleeping Altitude

65 - 3635m

Trek Character

Camping trek
Level: 2

Price

INR XXX/ $ XXX

ABOUT THIS TOUR

On this trip you will visit three of the lesser known areas in the north of India: Assam, Meghalaya and Sikkim.

First you will visit Assam, in the northeast of India. Here you’ll stay in an attractive old tea bungalow in Jorhat, walk through a nature reserve where the rare Hoolock Gibbons – India’s only ape species – live and visit the very special satras (Hindu monasteries) on Majuli Island, located in the Brahmaputra River.

Then you’ll visit the world-famous Kaziranga National Park, known for its large population of one-horned Indian rhinos, but home to a fascinating array of other wildlife, such as wild elephants, wild buffalo’s, several deer species and a very healthy popilation of tigers. Kaziranga is a birdeers paradise as well, with around 500 species of birds.

From Kaziranga you’ll travel up into the mountains of Meghalaya, where you’ll meet the matriarchal Khasi people and walk through lush green ravines to the unique phenomena of living root bridges.

Coming down to the Assam plains you’ll travel to Guwahati, where you’ll board a train to Siliguri, located in the plains at the foot of the Darjeeling Hills. In the nearby ‘tea capital’ Darjeeling – once part of Sikkim – you can enjoy colonial charm and the view of the Himalayas. You will then travel to the border with Nepal where you’ll hike the Shingalila Ridge, a north-south running ridge that offers unparalleled views of India’s highest mountain, the Kangchenjunga (8586m), and other top peaks in Nepal, including Mt. Everest.

After this, you will travel up to the former kingdom of Sikkim, now a state of India. Highlights include a visit to the ancient Buddhist monasteries of Pemayangste and Tashiding, even more views of the highest peaks of the Himalayas and contact with the Sikkimese during your stay in cosy guesthouses and family resorts. From Bagdogra (near Siliguri) you fly back to Delhi.

YOUR custom-made TRIP

The tour described here, as well as the other ones on our website, are mainly meant as suggestions. We would be happy to offer you a travel proposal that fully meets your personal demands and expectations. That means that you choose where you want to go, what level of accommodation and type of transport you want and what activities you prefer.

Please let yourself be inspired by this and other trips on our website and then drop us a line (or call us) to explain your travel wishes. We will be happy to help you put together the perfect trip. You can reach us over e-mail, Messenger, Whatsapp or mobile phone.

EXTENSIONS & VARIATIONS

Apart from the tour as described here, you could consider the following add-ons and changes:

  • Stay one or two days longer in Kaziranga, to explore more of the seven different ranges (parts) of the park, and increase your chances of a tiger sighting.
  • Travel further north – which means: higher – into the Sikkimese Himalayas and explore the isolated ‘Tibetan’ hamlets of Lachung and Lachen.
  • Do a more challenging trek instead of the Shingalila Ridge trek. For instance, the Goecha La Plus trek. On this 12-day trek you sleep in trekkers tents while a walk-along cook prepares your meals. You walk longer distances, climb higher but the rewards are even better views of the big guys.
  • If trekking is not your cup of tea we can show you some of the beautiful mountain forests, off-road villages and majestic views of the Himalayas on day walks.

ITINERARY

HIGHLIGHTS OF THIS TOUR

Chameli Memsaab BUNGALOW

The Chameli Memsaab Tea Bungalow is a so-called chang bungalow, a stately, rustic building of massive wooden bars and cottage-style masonry on stilts. The word chang is Assamese and refers to the fact that it is built on stilts. This served the purpose of avoiding flooding as well as avoiding in-door encounters with the wild animals that would regularly cross the tea estates, such as elephants, tigers leopards and king cobras. The building’s well-kept appearance belies more than a century of age. Once upon a time the manager of the tea estate lived here, now it is a hotel. Its owners have taken utmost care to preserve the erstwhile style and atmosphere.

Tea Gardens of Assam

If there is one legacy of the Brits in India it is tea. Tea estates, tea processing and exporting, and tea drinking. It was long believed that wild tea, Camelia sinensis, only grew in China, but this small woody brush was ‘rediscovered’ by the British in the early 19th century in the jungle of Assam. Camelia sinensis var. assamica had long been used by indigenous people. Large tracts of land were converted into tea gardens and these days Assam (and Darjeeling) tea are known worldwide. There are two kinds of preparation. The black tea that is being dunked in water that just has been boiled is called orthodox. In Indian households and tea stalls the tea is generally boiled for some time with milk and sugar, and sometimes spices. This is called CTC tea. The two kinds of tea require different factory handling, but both have the same Camelia leaves as the starting point.

Brahmaputra CROSSING

The Brahmaputra is the boon and bane of Assam. It originates near holy Mt. Kailash in Southwest Tibet, then travels 1250km east along the Himalayan Range until it finally finds a gorge that provides a passage through the mountains to the south. Emerging on the eastern tip of the Assamese plains, it spreads its waters wide and far. Uninhibited by any civil engineering, it wildly braids, forming new channel and islands while abandoning others all the time. It brings water to the rice fields and fish to the nets, but commercial shipping has never taken off. Because it being so wide and slow flowing, the Brahmaputra is very shallow. Wild elephants cross it regularly. Local ferries and tourist cruise boats are equipped with flat bottoms – to prevent capsizing – and often with side propellers for getting unstuck as well.

Satras of Majuli island

Majuli Island is known to be one of the largest islands in the world. This is a bit of stretch as the river that bounds it at the north is not part of the Brahmaputra, but a different river and quite a small one at that. Anyhow, the area does have a clear boundary defined by waterways and dit is definitely shaped by water as well. Having lost almost half of its erstwhile area to the raging Brahmaputra, it’s future is not very certain. That goes also for the unique Hindu monasteries called satras. These monasteries adhere to Vaishnavism, a sect founded by Sankar Dev in the 15th and 16th centuries. As Hindu priests and ascetics rarely if ever live together, this is a phenomenon in itself. The monks work, pray and dance together. The dances are enactments of the ancient Hindu scriptures, choreographed by Sankar Dev. They are very graceful and esoteric, and have also been declared a Unesco World Heritage.

Kaziranga National Park

Kaziranga N.P. is one of the crown jewels of Indian conservation. It is set for the protection of the Indian (unicorn) rhino. In 1908, when Kaziranga was first declared a Reserved Forest, less than 15 animals of it were still alive, now there are more than 2400. This is due to a for India unusually strict protection, in which a real war was – and is -fought with poachers who target the horn. This has worked out well, and not only for the rhinos. Nowadays Kaziranga is home to the largest populations of wild buffalos, wild elephants and swamp deer of Asia , as well as around 500 bird species. And the tiger… ? Kaziranga also has the highest density of tigers in Asia (largest number per 100 km2). Seeing rhinos in Kaziranga is easy, the tiger is a different matter. From our own experience, your chances of seeing one on a jeep drive are around 10%.

shillong

Shillong is the capital of the state of Meghalaya. It is located at an altitude of about 1500m on the edge of the Meghalaya plateau. The mountainous terrain translates into winding roads that are also often clogged. But Shillong is a pleasant and interesting place. Once this was the summer capital of British India. This was  at the time when Calcutta was the actual capital (before it was moved to Delhi in 1907). In the scorching hot summers the British moved with their entire civil service to Shillong, where the cooler and rainy climate undoubtedly made them feel at home. Nowadays, many “colonial” buildings remind us of this time.

Cherrapunjee

Cherrapunjee, also known as Sohra, is a small town is the south of Meghalaya. It is kbnown for it beautifully forested gorges, tall waterfalls and crystal-clear streams. Sohra once had the honour to be selected by the British for their new summer capital, because Shillong was found to be too hilly and even then had little room for expansion. However, the British ovewrlooked the fact that this gets a lot more rain in the summer than Shillong. It is in fact the wettest place on earth. More than 24 meters of rain has been recorded here. This is 40 times the average rainfall in London. Even for the homesick British, who probably longed for their cool, misty hills, this was too much, and the plan was abandoned. Nowadays, Cherrapunjee is a tiny village with a nice old church and some houses from the British era.

LIVING BRIDGES OF MEGHALAYA

The living bridges of Meghalaya are a world-wide unique phenomena. They are naturally grown with the help of a native tree species that is related to the rubber tree. Being adapted to an environment where fast-flowing streams can erode soils and thereby the tree’s foothold, its long, rapidly growing aerial roots can travel long distances before rooting in stable soil. The local Khasi tribal people have found out how to lead the roots over rivers and ravines using available natural materials and turning the roots a bridge.

Mawlynnong & Dawki

P.M.

Guwahati

The town of Darjeeling was built by the British in the middle of the eighteenth century, initially as a place of rest and recuperation for their troops. But over time it became one of the most important hill stations (holiday resorts in the mountains) of India. During the time when Kolkata was the capital of British India, Darjeeling, situated at over 2000m, functioned as a summer getaway for the Brits, who had a hard time enduring the heat of sea-level Kolkata. Darjeeling has retained much of the ‘old world’ charm that is so typical of British hill stations. Apart from exploring the steep and winding roads of the main bazaar, its is worthwhile to explore some of the Buddhist temples, notably Ghoom Monastery, the oldest in the  region, as well as the very interesting Mountaineering Institute.

DARJEELING

The town of Darjeeling was built by the British in the middle of the eighteenth century, initially as a place of rest and recuperation for their troops. But over time it became one of the most important hill stations (holiday resorts in the mountains) of India. During the time when Kolkata was the capital of British India, Darjeeling, situated at over 2000m, functioned as a summer getaway for the Brits, who had a hard time enduring the heat of sea-level Kolkata. Darjeeling has retained much of the ‘old world’ charm that is so typical of British hill stations. Apart from exploring the steep and winding roads of the main bazaar, its is worthwhile to explore some of the Buddhist temples, notably Ghoom Monastery, the oldest in the  region, as well as the very interesting Mountaineering Institute.

DARJEELING'S TOY TRAIN

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR), also known as the Toy Train, is a narrow gauge railway that runs between New Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling. Built between 1879 and 1881, it is about 88 km long. It climbs from about 100 m (328 ft) above sea level at New Jalpaiguri to about 2,200 m (7,218 ft) at Darjeeling, using six zig zags and five loops to gain altitude. Six diesel locomotives handle most of the scheduled service, with daily tourist trains from Darjeeling to Ghoom – India’s highest railway station – and the steam-hauled Red Panda service from Darjeeling to Kurseong. On 2 December 1999, UNESCO declared the DHR a World Heritage Site.

Singalila Ridge Trek

If we were to pick one trek that is, at best, moderately strenuous while offering superb views of the Himalayan giants, it is the Singalila Ridge Trek. On this trek you climb through well-protected subtropical forests teeming with butterflies, birdlife and some rare species like the red panda up to the montane zone of fir and Rhododendron. From late April to May exuberantly blooming rhododendrons and magnolias set the hill sides on fire. Emerging at the alpine meadows of Sandakphu, you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of the Himalayan range. Especially during autumn (October – December), when you can expect clear skies, you can see five summits higher than 8000m within one sweeping view, amongst them Everest, Kangchenjunga, Makalu and Lhotse.

Yangsum Farmhouse

Yangsum Farm is tucked away in an idyllic landscape with the Khangchenjunga (the third highest mountain in the world, 8586m) and the skyline of the Singalila Range in the background. It is a historic farmhouse, that was built in 1833 and renovated in 1966. The owners, Thendup Tashi and his wife Pema will certainly do their best to make you feel at home here. A large part of the estate consists of half-open forest with pines, Himalayan alders, sweet chestnuts, magnolias, rhododendrons, wild cherry and more tree species. If you arrive early, you can also walk to the local Buddhist monastery, or visit the old Lepcha Heritage House, dedicated to the culture of the oldest inhabitants of Sikkim.

Pemayangtse Monastery

Pemayangtse Gompa was built by Lama Lhatsun Chempo in 1705, and it is one of the oldest monasteries in Sikkim. It was expanded by the third Chogyal (king) of Sikkim Chakdor Namgyal, who was considered the third incarnation of Lhatsun Chenpo. The monastery follows the Nyingma order (‘Old sect’) and is the main monastery of this order in Sikkim. The monks of the monastery are normally chosen from the Bhutias (ethnic Tibetans living in Sikkim since the seventeenth century). The top floor of the monastery houses a rare work of art made of wood, a seven-storey representation of Guru Rinpoche’s Celestial Palace (known as ‘Sanghthokpalri’ or ‘Zandog-palri’). Guru Rimpoche, also known as Padmasambhava, was one of the most important spreaders of Buddhism in the eighth century.

Teen Taley Eco Resort

P.M.

Rumtek Monastery

Rumtek Gompa is the most famous monastery of Sikkim. It was originally built in the middle of the eighteenth century under the direction of Changchub Dorje, the 12th Karmapa, the reincarnated head abbot of the Karma Kagyu Sect. It served for some time as the seat of the Karma Kagyu Sect in Sikkim, but later this was moved to Tsurpu (or Tshurphu) in Tibet. When the 16th Karmapa arrived in Rumtek in 1959 after fleeing the Chinese oppression in Tibet, the monastery was in ruins. At the invitation of India’s first prime minister, Jawahal Nehru, and with generous support from the Sikkimese royal family and the local population, the monastery was rebuilt as a replica of the Tsurpu monastery, and the sacred objects that had been brought from Tsurpu were reinstalled. A golden stupa in the monastery contains the remains of the 16th Karmapa

Gangtok

In Sikkim’s capital Gangtok, the rear neighbours almost always live on another street and hardly anyone has a garden, because the slopes are too steep for that. This also means that the roads are nowhere wide and often clogged. But fortunately most locations in the city can be reached on foot. Pedestrians can use a whole series of footbridges to cross busy roads. Gangtok was also the first city in India to declare its centre a pedestrian area. Here it is pleasant to stroll and shop and there are numerous ‘hip’ restaurants and cafes. Thanks to the government’s serious approach to environmental problems – a rarity in India – this is also one of India’s cleanest city centres. Interesting places to visit include the flower exhibition – with many varieties of orchids, – the Institute of Tibetology, and Tashi Viewpoint.
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